Short Slim Men
Jackets
1. Shoulder can be higher and slightly broader.
2. Torso should broaden the chest and shoulders and have slight waist suppression.
3. Jacket length should be as short as possible; however, covering the buttocks without cutting the wearer in two.
4. Single breasted, three button coats promote a longer line.
5. Double-breasted coats should have a long roll and button below the natural waist.
6. Lapel notches should be in the chest's upper range. Peaked lapels offer more height.
7. Side vents or no vents.
8. Flap pockets add more width to the hip and balance better with the wider shoulder, but they are not as elongating as the simple besom pocket.
9. Fabrics such as mill-finished worsteds and flannels; with patterning that emphasizes verticality such as: herringbones, medium spaced chalk or pinstripes, and windowpanes longer in the woof (vertical) than the weft (horizontal).
Trousers
1. A matching trouser lengthens more than a contrasting one.
2. Should be worn high on the waist and fuller on the hip to promote a longer leg line and to smooth the transition of the fuller trouser with the larger scale shoe.
3. Trouser should break on shoe to extend the view from top to bottom.
4. Cuffs (1 5/8") help to smooth the transition of the fuller trouser with the larger scale shoe.
Accessories
1. Striped dress shirts with non-contrasting collars and cuffs.
2. Spread collars, tab collars, long pointed pin collars
3. Suspenders emphasize verticality.
4. Striped, solid, understated neckwear knotted in four in hand style.
5. Longer four in hand necktie can be tucked into trouser.
6. Tonal handkerchief folded with points leaning outward.
7. Welted soled shoes add height and balance with the breadth of the shoulder.
Short Heavy Men
Clothes should also elongate but work to deemphasize breadth.
Jackets
1. Straighter cut coat.
2. Two button single breasted better than three button or double breasted.
3. Besom pockets over flap
4. Side vents over no vents
5. Sleeves need to taper down to cuff, cannot be too wide at hand
6. Fabrics should be dark and smooth, such as fine worsted.
7. Dark solids, medium-width stripping, and herringbones deemphasize bulk.
Trousers
1. Reverse pleat on trousers keeps front flat while breaking the expanse of its width.
2. As long a rise a comfortable, fit on natural waist not below protruding stomach.
3. Cuffs assist the transition of the full cut trouser to the larger scaled shoe.
Accessories
1. Long straight point collars.
2. solid ties; patterned ties; ties with stripes or prints with movement.
3. Welt-sole shoes for a more substantial platform; no lightweight, dainty footwear.
Tall Men
The taller the tree, the broader its branches, so the tall man needs fuller cut clothes for balance and style. The selections should deemphasize length by breaking up vertical lines
Jackets
1. Sloping shoulders of generous width.
2. Coat should be cut on the longer side.
3. Double-breasted model that buttons on waist, not below it, such as the 6/2 placement
4. Two button single breasted
5. Broader lapels, finishing in lower area of upper chest.
6. Flap pockets and the additional ticket pocket help fragment verticality.
7. The fabrics can be heavier in look, such as flannels and cheviots, and of larger scale in pattern, as broad stripes, hounds tooth checks, glen plaids, or squared-off window panes.
Trousers
1. Long rise, full cut with deep pleats.
2. Legs with gentle taper.
3. Cuffs (1 3/4) with definite break on shoe.
Accessories
1. Full cut shirts must show 1/2" of shirt cuff
2. White contrast collars and cuffs break up length.
3. Amply proportioned spread collars.
4. Broadly spaced, fine-lined stripes, tattersall checks, windowpanes and horizontal stripes.
5. Belts break up length.
6. Welt soled shoes for more substantial foundation.
Athletic Build
For the man of average height whose chest size is at least eight inches more than his waist size, the principle is to re-proportion the over sized shoulder with the smaller bottom.
Jackets
1. Shoulders should be as unpadded and natural looking as possible.
2. Jackets need length to balance the strong shoulder without shortening the leg line.
3. Minimal waist suppression.
4. Two button single breasted over double breasted avoid three button single breasted.
5. Lapels should be full with slight belly.
6. Flaps on pockets
7. Side vents or no vents
8. Fabrics should deemphasize bulk: solid worsteds herringbones, vertical windowpanes, subtle stripes with no less than 3/4" spacing
Trousers
1. To fill out the jacket, trousers must be worn as high on the waist as comfortable.
2. Full cut through hip and thigh with taper to 1 3/4" cuff.
3. Trousers leg should have definite break on shoe.
Accessories
Assuming a broad face and thick neck:
1. Vertical shirt collars such as tab or long points.
2. Solid, striped, or patterned neck wear.
3. Shirts with strong stripes.
4. Shoes with larger scale to balance shoulders.
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